Sunday, May 6, 2023 – Days 136
The American Cemetary – Normandy, France
After two days at sea, we sailed up the English Channel arriving in La Havre, France as the sun was rising on a cloudy day.
In the dim light of morning, we passed by a colorful art piece that brightened up the working commercial port.
Le Havre has a large, not very scenic, working port. As the gangplank was attached to the ship, we observed a laydown yard containing huge blades for wind turbines.
Turns out this was the plant that manufactures wind turbines. Wind turbines generate about 10% of the electricity consumed in France. France has one of the smaller carbon footprints of all industrialized nations.
After leaving the port, we drove to Omaha Beach, one of 5 sites of the pivotal Allied D-Day landing. The landings took place on June 6, 1944. This was the day that would change the course of the war in Europe; the outcome would help define the world as we know it today.
As we learned about Operation Overlord, the code name for the Battle of Normandy, we also learned that the Normandy Landing (what we now call D-Day) was code named Operation Neptune. It was a strange feeling to have traveled here on a ship named Neptune.
According to family lore, my uncle, my mom’s brother, served in Normandy, arriving sometime after the initial D-Day landing. I don’t know exactly where he might have served and that generation of my family is all gone now, so it is too late to ask. Even so, I couldn’t help but think of him as we looked out over the beaches and drove through the towns of Normandy.
Once at Omaha beach, we visited a memorial that sits right on the beach overlooking that landing site.
The inscription on the memorial, in French & English, reads; “THE ALLIED FORCES LANDING ON THIS SHORE WHICH THEY CALL OMAHA BEACH LIBERATE EUROPE JUNE 6TH 1944”.
You can just see the rest of the memorial to the far left of the frame, this portion of the monument, which sits in the sand on the beach, is called Les Braves.
Les Braves Omaha Beach Memorial at nearly high tide.
When the first wave of troops landed here, they had to cover 300 yards of open beach to reach cover at the base of the fortified bluffs. Standing here now, it is not hard to imagine the terror the men faced as they made their way through the water, sand and mines under heavy gunfire as their brothers fell beside them. Their bravery was remarkable.
These are the words of the monument’s sculptor:
“Les Braves consists of three elements:
The wings of Hope
So that the spirit which carried these men on June 6th, 1944 continues to inspire us, reminding us that together it is always possible to changing the future.
Rise, Freedom!
So that the example of those who rose against barbarity, helps us remain standing strong against all forms of inhumanity.
The Wings of Fraternity
So that this surge of brotherhood always reminds us of our responsibility towards others as well as ourselves.
On June 6th, 1944 these man were more than soldiers, they were our brothers.”
Notre-Dame l’Assomption de Colleville
The picturesque town of Colleville sur Mer was heavily damaged in WWII. The billboard that stands in front of the restored church shows the extent of its damage. Colleville sur Mer is the home of the American Cemetary.
A quiet lane in Colleville sur Mer, the home of the American Cemetery.
During the liberation of Normandy, between 13,600 and 19,900 French civilians were killed, and more were seriously wounded.
The entrance to the American Cemetery.
A bit of rain was falling as we walked into the cemetery. Perhaps fitting weather for this somber day.
As you enter the cemetery, you first see a memorial with a statue depicting the soul of American youth rising from the waves.
Inside the walls of the monument are maps depicting the battles by sea and in the air on D-Day.
The Garden of the Disappeared
Just behind the monument is a garden dedicated to those missing in action during the campaign. Bordered by a long-arched wall made up of stone plaques, separated by laurel leaves, are inscribed the names, rank, unit and state of origin of 1,557 men.
Above the names is inscribed:
“On this monument are engraved the names of American fighters who, having given their homeland the gift of their lives, rest in unknown places. Here their monument, the whole Earth is their sepulcher. Companions in arms whose final resting place is known only to God.”
When remains are identified as discoveries and technology allow, a small brass button is placed next to the soldier’s information. You’ll see a button (toward the top center above) next to the name of PFC Loy Bishop. Nineteen of the missing have since been identified and marked with a brass button.
Turning and walking down the steps of the memorial we faced the reflecting pool with the graveyard in the distance. The vast expanse was quiet as rain drops fell off and on.
This visit had a profound effect on us both. We walked silently along the tree lined avenue, taking in the vast number of souls buried here. One for each of the 9,384 men and 4 women laid to rest here. 14,000 remains, once buried in Normandy, were sent back to the US at the request of their families. As the soldiers rest here, all of their headstones face west, looking over the ocean towards home.
The graves are marked by white marble headstones, 9,237 are crosses, 151 are stars of David. Only three religions were recognized by the US Army at that time, so no other type of markers are present.
304 unknown soldiers are buried among the other servicemembers. Their headstones read “HERE RESTS IN HONORED GLORY A COMRADE IN ARMS KNOWN BUT TO GOD”.
Metal of Honorees are inscribed in gold.
When a person visits the cemetery, after getting permission, they are allowed to take sand from the beach below and rub it into their loved one’s headstone, making the engraving easier to read and photograph. Over time the sand washes away leaving the pristine marker. Because of preparations for a special ceremony held on June 6th each year, one month from today, we were not allowed to walk on the grass among the headstones; but this did not diminish the impact of our visit.
Inside of the chapel on the cemetery grounds. The flags of the Allies are all represented. Clearly visible in person, but not picked up in my photo, is a radiating Star of David engraved in the lower windowpane.
“To these we owe the high resolve that the cause for which they died shall live.”
We both remarked that we were struck by the similarity of the American Cemetery to Arlington National Cemetery. Jeff’s Mom and Dad, a career Navy man, are buried at Arlington. There is a feeling of sadness in both of these places, but also pride in our young men & women willing to give their lives for freedom wherever called. We are forever thankful.
Remains of Mulberry Harbor in the distance.
When planning for the landing, they knew there was going to be a problem getting men and heavy equipment across the soft sand beaches without an existing harbor. Strategically the Allies did not want to land where there was an existing harbor, as these were controlled by the enemy.
To solve the problem, Allied Forces constructed a massive artificial port. Huge concrete caissons were towed across the English Channel and sunk offshore to create a breakwater and a harbor inside its protection, where long floating roads were assembled to offload tanks and equipment.
6,750 tons of equipment and supplies, per day, entered through this artificial port. Over the course of the remainder of the campaign, 500,000 tons of supplies and equipment would be carried over the floating roads to support the Allied war effort.
Eventually the sea will claim the remains of the temporary harbor. To make sure that it, and the entire operation, is never forgotten, the people of France have curated an outstanding museum that we were fortunate enough to visit, along with hundreds of others and their children.
After a full and somber day, we had lunch across the street from the museum. I can verify that the French know a thing or two about roasting a chicken.
As we left the restaurant, on the side of the building facing us was the mural below. If only we would learn from the past.
On another note: Congratulations to England, they crowned their new King today. Another bit of history that was able to take place thanks to the sacrifice of Allied Troops (and those who serve today) in preserving freedom in Europe and the world.
Tomorrow, we sail for the white cliffs of Dover and a trip to Canterbury, our last stop before we reach Greenwich, our last port of call.